blue gingham shirt -grommit edition

Blue gingham shirt. Wardrobe staple for the young. A few options as below.

Boden. $34. Heaviest. 10e approved.


Gap. $24. No navy.

Brooks Bros. $45.

JCrew (crew cuts). $39.50.

What is gingham? [from various sources on the interwebs]; Gingham is made of carded or combed, medium or fine yarns, where the coloring is on the warp yarns and always along the grain. Gingham has no right or wrong side regarding color.

The name is Indonesian in origin, assimilated into Dutch (modification of the Malay genggang meaning striped cloth). From the mid 18th century, when it was being produced in the mills of Manchester, England, it had become woven into checked or plaid patterns (often blue and white).

The production of gingham was a major economic boon to Manchester, England and the surrounding areas. In the New World, gingham made the textile industry a powerful force in what is now the Virginias, the Carolinas, Georgia and Alabama. Well into the middle of the twentieth century, many textile companies prominently marketed gingham, especially checked gingham patterns, in their lines of fabric. One of the most popular of these checked fabrics during the middle twentieth century was made by an American company, Dan River Mills, which marketed a special blend of cotton and synthetics that was called DanChecks. [Before you check, I did already, Dan River Mills was wrapped up and sold to an Indian firm in 2006, mills demolished. -ed.]

another log on the fire -penfield chambray w/ gingham

Man, Penfield just keep pumping strikes... chambray shirt w/ gingham touches. Blue not black gingham thankfully. Via the great FUSShop in the UK.

Similar definitions all over the place but thought I'd post it up... "Chambray is a closely woven plain weave fabric that may be made from natural or synthetic fibers, but is most commonly made of cotton. It has a colored warp and white or unbleached weft. Chambray is soft, smooth, durable and lightweight with a faded look and slight luster. It is also easy to sew and launders well." -via kidbean

Add the 10engines gimme hat and you are in 'tuxedo land.

picnic squares done right

I have a long sleeved picnic gingham shirt that I rely on. May be an old Arrow, or some sort of Sears cruisewear, the tag fell off a few years ago. It is tissue thin. Not afraid of those big squares, me.

This shirt here by Penfield (Saxton) nails it as a short sleeve though. Great gingham and throws in a little bone with the workshirt-ish buttoned-up pocket. Found it via a UK stockist but you can buy it direct from Penfield.


Dont agree w/ the sentiment in the song but nice shirt below. Thx Matt.

10E2368: Topo Designs Gingham Shirt

I am on record espousing the benefits of a little western in your shirting. Caveat below;

"...being aware of the history of the cowboy archetype is recommended here: "Fictional cowboys are never bored. Real cowboys were often so bored that they memorized the labels on tin cans and then played games to see how well they could recite them." — from a fantastic article called "Ten-Gallon Hero" by David B. Davis."

I'll still lurk on eBay for Sears Western Wear shirts just like this (see below) but they are pretty scarce now, and mine have all gone paper-thin. Luckily the guys at Topo Designs have the answer... just make them! All the details. Blue or red gingham. Made in the USA. $129.

Come on, it is a shirt that you can fix with a hammer! In the words of bad-Kermit, "nailed it".

10E2636: Combi Gingham

Jumpsuit tied at the waist.  Yup. From OMIL; "There's no such things as a bad gingham shirt. This is just science."  Haha 100%. Give me 2 ginghams and double your fun.  via Strato. 

parenting -gap

Chambray lined collar and cuffs, check. Western styling and/or pseudo period stitching, check. Gingham lined and tab collars, check. Madras, natch'. In 3 color schemes. For kids only... Gap.

10E2494: Gift Guide Zero

Love a gift guide. To paraphrase myself;

Pretty much anything on 10e would work as a gift... the picks should probably be made of either leather, glass, stone or a combination of the above. Sidenote: 10e is a grilling-tool fee zone... and though parent friendly, 10e will always be a diaper-bag free zone.

• GingHAM print via The Old Try -$35 (psst plus a super secret chance to win their xmas print if spending over $100)
• Fly drying patch via Finn (VT) -$20.
• Farmhouse Pottery striker - you can feel the scratch of that match head from here... $32 if from Huckberry
• ESCAPE mason bag (USA), sourced and printed via Forestbound -$99 shipping included
• Hurricane Lantern via Simon Pearce (VT) -$145 shipping included
• Explorer's Compass Watch (MN). Everything you need - nothing you don't... $85 via Huckberry. (or just get the compass part from maker Tru-Nord for $44)
• Fantastic Face Wash traveler size (2oz) via Ursa Major -$12 (get $5 off if your first order ever, plus 3 minis for all... no brainer) This saves your weekend - lifesaver. Ingredients like black spruce oil, fir needle oil, rosemary water, grapefruit peel, lime oil, cedar wood, spearmint leaf  (USA)

farmer's meerschaum -cobb pipe

Supposedly you can make your own corn cob pipes but these simple, inexpensive cob pipes from the 19thC upstart Hirschl & Bendheim's Irvin S. Cobb marque (which come "Toasted and Broken In") get great play among pipe smokers, not least for their ease of use. Of course, better not to smoke atall. These pipes played off the aura of Irvin S. Cobb the Kentuckian humorist who it seems was actually more like a cigar smoker... Full story on this anyone??

The older and larger manufacturer of corn cob pipes is The Missouri Meerschaum Company, located in Washington, Missouri since 1869. The shots below from Life photographer Wallace Kirkland, seem to be from a visit there.




Finally, Gen. Douglas MacArthur. Photographer: Carl Mydans. MacArthur smoked a cob pipe made for him to precise specs by the Missouri Meerschaum Company. Dubbed the #98M (Mac). Natural cob with a straight stem.


Love this excerpt below from A Message to Boonville by Christopher Darlington Morley. (via Gutenburg Project)

"What is the subtle magic of a corncob pipe? It is never as sweet or as mellow as a well-seasoned briar, and yet it has a fascination all its own. It is equally dear to those who work hard and those who loaf with intensity. When you put your nose to the blackened mouth of the hot cob its odor is quite different from that fragrance of the crusted wooden bowl. There is a faint bitterness in it, a sour, plaintive aroma. It is a pipe that seems to call aloud for the accompaniment of beer and earnest argument on factional political matters. It is also the pipe for solitary vigils of hard and concentrated work. It is the pipe that a man keeps in the drawer of his desk for savage hours of extra toil after the stenographer has powdered her nose and gone home.

A corncob pipe is a humble badge of philosophy, an evidence of tolerance and even humor. It requires patience and good cheer, for it is slow to "break in." Those who meditate bestial and brutal designs against the weak and innocent do not smoke it. Probably Hindenburg never saw one. Missouri's reputation for incredulity may be due to the corncob habit. One who is accustomed to consider an argument over a burning nest of tobacco, with the smoke fuming upward in a placid haze, will not accept any dogma too immediately.

There is a singular affinity among those who smoke corncobs. A Missouri meerschaum whose bowl is browned and whose fiber stem is frayed and stringy with biting betrays a meditative and reasonable owner. He will have pondered all aspects of life and be equally ready to denounce any of them, but without bitterness. If you see a man on a street corner smoking a cob it will be safe to ask him to watch the baby a minute while you slip around the corner. You would even be safe in asking him to lend you a five. He will be safe, too, because he won't have it.

Think, therefore, of the charm of a town where corncob pipes are the chief industry. Think of them stacked up in bright yellow piles in the warehouse. Think of the warm sun and the wholesome sweetness of broad acres that have grown into the pith of the cob. Think of the bright-eyed Missouri maidens who have turned and scooped and varnished and packed them. Think of the airy streets and wide pavements of Boonville, and the corner drug stores with their shining soda fountains and grape-juice bottles. Think of sitting out on that bluff on a warm evening, watching the broad shimmer of the river slipping down from the sunset, and smoking a serene pipe while the local flappers walk in the coolness wearing crisp, swaying gingham dresses. That's the kind of town we like to think about."

[Note: meerschaum pipes are made of the epinonimous white bone-like mineral. Usually ornately carved.]

that rehearsal dinner look -vt edition

When a wedding rehearsal dinner is outdoors in central Vermont, even if it is summer, the game is all changed. Make that a pig roast and you had better come dressed to play.

Gloves: Kinco. Love these. Inexpensive as hell and essential for turning the spit.
Vest: Penfield x Stussy. Hickory striped... bosh.
The striped rugby is a stone cold classic. To get gritty cut the collar off, just above the seam... turns it into sort of a sweatshirt.
Old Levis, turned up. Handkerchief. Docksiders. No socks. Maybe should bring some marled wool socks in case the temp really dips, or the bugs come out...
Belt: Used to wear a thick belt and buckle all the time but recently have liked the thinner belts... this undyed Billykirk is simple and no doubt ages well.

Bring a bunch of leeks, split lengthwise, soaked in some kind of oil/herbs to throw on the grill. Big hit. Eat your greens.

Secret weapon (besides mixing Long Trail kegs and fireworks) is sourcing a Polaroid camera and film, from a former Polaroid executive. Cannot wait to bust that out. Congrats Skye and Tina... See you soon.


[Update. Damn, saw these too late. Vans Authentic Gingham via Selectism. V nice. And Hanes x Deluxe insanity quality vnecks via New Dandyism.]

kitchen tools -beyond the basics 6

35. Champagne stopper. The joke is that we never have a half finished bottle of sparkling... i.e. it always gets finished but this model works well.

36. Milk jug. No, technically milk doesn't come out of a cow's mouth... rarely whimsical over here, but we have this.

37. Just saw these yday. Seeds embedded on cardboard sticks, like matches. Great presentation. Matchstick Garden. Grow your own heeeerrrbs.

38. Diner mugs. Some don't like the lip-feel of these. Too dribbly. Have a bit of a collection going.

39. Corn cob holders. Sort of unnecessary/kitsch but then so would be red gingham tablecloths and clam dip. Not up for discussion...

40. Clamp. Have a bunch of these to keep bags of pork rinds or whatever closed... Yes a clothes peg works too, but hammer to a fly, we use safety orange rubberized 4" spring clamps.

that taking the ferry look -2

If you ever get a chance to visit the Nantucket Whaling Museum it is a must-see. Pops used to drag us, sure. $15 entry but really worth it at least once. The old posters advertising for young men to join a whaling ship etc are great. Why wouldnt you go?

Watch: Omega reissue of the Jacques Cousteau collab Ploprof watch from 1971 -nicknamed PloProf by the French speaking development team and derives from the French term PLOngeur PROFessionnel (Professional Diver) as per Watchismo. No way in hell I could spring for this but it is a fugly beauty.
Belt: Brooks Bros
Everything else is standard 10engines issue; Levis and gingham shirt -check, older Carhartt jacket -natch', crepe soled shoes -yawn. Unbreakable hair organizer: Draplin. Your hat will probably blow off anyway on the ferry, so drag a comb and some wax through that mess and lay it down.

[Update: shoes are from Sears.]

10E3287: Peru Fair 2014

Tomorrow, Saturday Sept 27th, the annual Peru Fair will crank up again in the little town of Peru near Bromley Mountain in Vermont. This craft fair has returned to its former glory. There is a full-on pig roast and plenty of other food vendors around, hay and pony rides, music, demos and clogging. What else do you need? $6 donation to the Town of Peru Scholarship Fund. Kids under 6 free. No dogs. Opening parade starts at 9:45.

The leaves are turning and it can be chilly by the end of September in southern Vermont - but the fair seems to always be blessed with warm weather - unless it pours. Rain or shine folks! 

Gettup; 10e duck canvas cap, Topo gingham shirt, double front pants, Danner Tramline boots, Norcross bandana. You will be a hero if you bring some Tabasco to the picnic table.

(Pro-tip: unwritten rule that if you hike Bromley you can ride the slide back down gratis. Have your pal drop you off at the Long Trail trailhead a mile down past the mountain and hike up). Our friends in town have revived the JJHapgood General Store - check them out - there will be a beer tent andmusic once the fair ends. After the pig roast grab a quail kabob and some gingery Switchel. This great local potter Janno Gay doesn't do the Fair so much but fantastic list of other vendors here.

"The Pig Roast starts at 11am, run once again by the Peru Volunteer Fire Department: The Pig Roast includes: pork, BBQ sauce, apple sauce, cole slaw, beans, and a roll. Roast corn is $2 extra."  12 till its gone!

 Our sleepy little town turns to this... see ya there!

devon sproule

Omil put me onto this sweet folky lady, Devon Sproule, a while ago, and anyway M asking for more music... and a sucker for gingham.

Clip below from the home of all good things Later on Jools.



Lots more at her site.

orvis -us patent

You can follow the bouncing ball on these USPatent posts but got my hands on a copy of the catalog and wanted to share my 2cents.

Quick backstory, this special catalog from Orvis, the famed rod/gun/outfitter, is entirely made up of US-made products. Some are iconic (Schott Peacoat) some are more niche (Stronghold gear, Gitman shirts), some were specially made (Miner's pant). Full disclosure; note that I grew up near Manchester, VT so v familiar w/ Orvis and tangentially know some employees there.

Not going to lie, most of the collection is a little rich for me but have to admire the thinking that has gone into this. Also glad Orvis kept the copy relatively jingo-free. Available in August.

Vintage 1951 Ford F-1. This vintage pickup truck was subjected to a meticulous frameoff restoration resulting in a truck that looks exactly as it did when it rolled off the assembly line nearly 60 years ago. Sheridan blue/gray. Fully restored V-8 engine, solid oak bed boards. $67,500. [this is in the dictionary under don't sleep or maybe lottery]


Whipcord Trousers. Tailored in Greenpoint, New York, these poly/wool whipcord pants [love whipcord] have a forward facing pleated front with an additional interior French-tab closure [not usually a pleats fan but the watch pocket almost negates them here]. Pockets have leather trim [love that -ed.], button-through rear pockets. $298


The Stronghold, one of the original American denim-workwear companies, was founded in 1895 —when The Orvis Company was just 39 years old... The Stronghold® Denim Chore Coat is crafted from sturdy 11.5-oz. herringbone (aka fisher stripe) pure cotton denim; features four front pockets, a pen slot, and one interior pocket. Adjustable cuffs. $445.


Flannel Shirt. Crafted in Fall River, Massachusetts —once home to a thriving garment industry where vacant factories are gradually returning to life. Soft-brushed flannel and casual styling. Spread collar. [have never seen a gingham flannel -ed.] $149

Rising Sun Miner’s Pants. [These might be the most pined for item already; hit the image to see it way bigger. Can't confirm it in b&w but assume RisingSunJeans are behind this]. Crafted in Pasadena, CA using American cotton denim twill, these work pants are given a thoroughly broken-in look. [cue obligatory backstory -ed.] A pair of early 20thC pants found in a California mining camp provided inspiration for traditional details, including front and rear patch pockets, button fly, and adjustable-buckle back. Right-front coin pocket. Denim-lined waistband. Wheat color. $189. #nails.


Oxford-Cloth Tartan Shirt. Made in Ashland, PA by The Gitman Company (1948). Garment washed. Chest pocket. Single-button cuff. [like that navy/white/yellow] $149.

Hill Climber Jacket. Taylor Supply® crafts this heirloom-quality waxed pure cotton jacket. Shawl collar with soft wool lining, four outside pockets, adjustable waist and back straps, button front closure, and adjustable gusseted cuffs. Fully lined. Wool cuff and pocket-flap linings. Runs small. Wipe clean with damp sponge. $495 [this is actually available now]

that eyjafjallajokull look

You may be stuck in a airport with your small child for 48 hours... you'll get cold on the plane [or the airport since you are in Iceland -ed.] so something to stay warm that doesn't have to go over your head 100 times is key. JCrewCuts does versions of all this for that mimi-me look...


Thick Cardigan: JCrew. And some kind of chambray or gingham shirt. Blue.
Pants: Carhartt double-kneed painter's pants. Discontinued but available online. Cuff'em
Handerchief: Orvis.
Bowtie: Stick a tie in your bag just in case. Xoelle.
Schoosh; Burts Bees. Called sage, but smells woodsy.
Belt: Orvis, the D-ring thingy snaps off.

Did you have that Super Dictionary as a kid? Memories. It is a little heavy for carry-on maybe but hours of easy reading for the we'ans. I just started In the Heart of the Sea, fantastic.

fridays are tie days -beau ties of vt

Beau Ties of Vermont have a new line of neck, and bow ties [oxford comma ftw -ed.] in various gingham colors. All cotton, made in VT for those keeping score. Straight shooting blue job above is 40 sheets. Perfect for attending a Green Mountain party outdoors or church service; see you there.

that w.a.m. look

Running a couple of errands before the w/e hits hence the Walking Around Money (WAM) look. The eternal question, "do you get your board tuned before the season starts?" Or too likely to catch an edge those first few days... I wait myself. Used to see GrindRite machines all around, they have now been swallowed up by Wintersteiger (d/b/a Kalow Technologies I believe?). Loved the GrindRite logos, remember that dungaree clad buzzcut guy?

Carhartt Detroit jacket. I think the patches are holding it together.
Chamois shirt. Shammy... Hard to get slim ones, New Old Stock is key...
Sucker for slim wintery gloves. Drop Mfg.
Filson Mackinaw hat. Not too much at all, the thing is great. Hadn't looked up definition of Mackinaw till now...

"Etymology: Mackinaw (Mackinac), trading post at site of Mackinaw City, Michigan.
Date: 1833
1 : a heavy woolen blanket formerly distributed by the United States government to the Indians
2 a : a heavy cloth of wool or wool and other fibers often with a plaid design and usually heavily napped and felted b : a short coat of mackinaw or similar heavy fabric" -via Websters.

Pocket knife inherited from grandpa... A pipe smoker's knife, by Rodgers of Sheffield. The butted end is a tamper, also a small blunt ended knife and pick folded in.
Slim belt from Billykirk. Might be it for my buckle and western...
Chippewa cordovan boots via Three Wood.
Ragg socks
Evisu re-launched jeans.
Done. Or flip the scheme as below. Substitute gingham shirt, beaten up brogues and gimme cap.

that taking the ferry look

Jean jacket for the ferry ride: Necessity. Everyone else will freeze. Lee 101 this time, plenty like it around.
Slicker: Barn score, resurrected from a toychest in Vermont, tough to find. Sperry, a stone cold classic.
Shorts: JCrew. Slimmish.
Almost OCDB material for the boxers by JPress. Cushy waistband. Since you are there grab a gingham bandanapocket square.
Blucher moccasins: handsewn in a little place in Freeport, Maine I believe...
Pocket knife: Hardwood VSA.
Gimme cap: Scored on ebay, Carhartt Centennial.
Belt: Vineyard Vines. Anything that will survive the inevitable dunk in the water and no gold buckle.
Mason bag: I can't find much wrong with a standard issue mason bag. All the clamor over (yes very nice) $200-300 canvas bags is a bit lost on me. Pops gave me one like this, get yours at Aubuchon.

yard sale -orvis

Visited the Orvis flagship store last w/e. Insanity. Laquered wood, stonework and wrought iron as far as the eye can see. Not me, but they have partnered with Vanson on a leather jacket. Like the Ike shape, just not my jam. They are however carrying a load of new items that might interest as below. I have finally found a source for my Mr. Magoo millinery needs. Now if they just carried some good jeans...





FDR Magoo Hat
Barbour Moto Jacket.
Hemp/Organic cotton Chambray L/S.
Buffalo Check L/S (lightweight cotton, large gingham).
Pembroke Canoe Moccassin. Handstitched in ME, natch'.
Alden Cordovan Loafers. You could drown in the color of these.