Saturday, January 9

end of an era -the three clock inn


The Three Clock Inn is where I saw what it took to be the consummate waiter. Try to be Jacques, instead of James. Where I learned to drop an ice cube in my coffee... make killer vinaigrette, use endive in salad; required. Have you ever had a waiter, in tuxedo, flambé rum in a heated copper pot, tableside, to finish your baked alaska?? Jacques did that. If you had been a customer here sometime before 2001 you might have had the good fortune to meet him.

This southern Vermont institution may be closing next weekend after a 70 year run; and though not a total shock in the economic sense it is a big blow to me emotionally. It was a shining light of beyond-Julia-Child force in the 1970's, 80's and 90's, with gingham wallpaper, fireplaces, creaky wooden floors, the dedication of a husband and wife team (the classic arrangement of chef/front of house) Hank & Francis Tschernitz, the ever present Jacques (except Mondays, he was out fishing then), and the rotating under-staff of local kids; including yours truly, my sister, my brother, my other brother and more.

Hell, my Bruv was a baby-in-bassinet under the table here for many dinners. And for all the duck, foie gras, sole meuniere, veal, softshell crab (got your attention now?) and more that was offered, M tells me she had the best vegetarian dinner of her life in this place. Bang.

Last year I had the chance to interview the current owner/chef Serge Roche and Hank Tschernitz (former owner/chef that put the place on the map) for the oral history elective of my library degree. There is so much I am not saying here but if you are within a 2 hour drive of South Londonderry, Vermont this week -grab a piece of history (and some frog's legs, so good... if you like chicken wings and garlic bread you will be in heaven) and get one of their last suppers. Do it. (802) 824-6327. Same phone number since 1947. Extra points if you say the name right...


To say the former owner Heinrich (Hank) is a character [insert air quotes -ed.] would be an understatement. Here he is (tuxedo below) in his former life as a waiter in Venezuela, ready to serve cocktails (whiskey and coke by the looks of it) for the South American book release of Papillon; Henri Charriere is just out of frame. Hank got me an intro to the chef of Nantucket's Chanticleer (Jean-Charles Berruett) when I needed a job on Nan' in the 90's. During our staff dinners he would regale us with stories of his travels, recipes and of course waiters tales (like "the truffle affair...") Icon status. Sidenote; I really don't want end_of_era to become a regular feature on 10e...

10 comments:

Apothecary Fox said...

To a T.

Kristin said...

Gasp! Really????

Only there once, but so memorable. It was when I learned that squab was a pigeon and we had that great meal with your dad and Nana when Nancy was in Tobago. Good times, fun memories.

It's been on my list of places to return to for far too long. . .

Chris said...

One of your best posts to date.

--SLIS student

Mutt said...

So glad we had dinner there in 2008 when over for Thanksgiving -family memory to treasure ! lovely article and am sure will be a good memory for so many people -Mutt xx

TRAWETS NILTGEOV said...

All these gray lions are fading out. This looks like it is/was a fantastic place. Shame.

Lisa said...

Wow, what a tribute and some really visual imagery. Such a shame - I'd love to have experienced it there. Seems like a classy joint.

abby jenkins said...

Great video and post.

I own the house adjacent to the Three Clock and was very sad to see it deteriorate in every way over the past few years. Good news is that there are new owners, a young couple from NY, a chef and his wife, who will most certainly turn this it around again to the gem that it should be.

steve t said...

awesome place with many memories.....i think serge still has my caviar! awesome to have gotten past the child labor laws for so many years!!! will be missed

Alicia (Lee) said...

With plans to travel through the Londonderry area this weekend I was refreshing my memory as to where Three Clock Inn was and found this site. It was great seeing Hank after so many years. My father-in-law rented the apartment off the back of the main house/inn for 3 or 4 winters in the early '90s so the family could ski Magic & Stratton. He & his friends had been regulars at the inn for years, back to the BYOB days. I didn't ski but I loved to go up and have dinner and breakfast at the inn (as well as a bit of shopping). Jacques made me feel like a princess. He would kiss the back of my hand "Mademoiselle". Such a sweet man. Escargot, steak au poivre, and creme brulee that Jacques instructed me to tap the crisp sugar top with the back of my spoon. The dinners were fantastic and for breakfast a mushroom omlette (the mushrooms had been sauted in garlic butter) YUM. The waiter for breakfast was Hank himself. He went to bed right after the last dinner was done leaving the others to close and clean up. Hank, Francis, and Jacques were there every night that I was and I am grateful for some lovely memories and a much improved palate.

james at 10engines said...

@Alicia thx for that. The young couple that took over the three clock are family friends. V cool. Called Solo now for south londondery. You can google their menu.